I've got the Hero2 - had it just over a year. I have pretty much every mount, the wifi-backpack and the dive housing for it. I really wanted to buy the 3 black, but I can't really justify another one yet.

My Hero2 is looking a little battered though, but it still works perfectly so I might wait for the Hero4 (which will probably be next year, if other product releases are anything to go by!)

It does look amazing though and it shoots 4K.. annndd 1080/60..

Arghhh.. I don't need one.. I don't need one..

If you send me a PM with your email address I'll send you a link to the various skiing videos that have been done, the slow motion (even on the HD2) that my mate has done is immense, the HD3 will be even better!

Since when did you have to need something to buy it???

PM'd.

For all the equipment I've already invested in the Hero2 - it's not really in my interest to be spending another $400 on something that is better .. but not ground-breaking better.

I travelled for 10 weeks across America with my GoPro and filmed a variety of different shots - mounted on cars, jet ski's, speedboats, wakeboards .. everything and anything and my slow-mo looks slick enough to me.

Whilst it would be a nice accessory to have, I don't think I can justify the $400 it costs over here - When the Hero4 comes out, I think that's my time for an upgrade - so much more to get out of this one yet.

From Man to Rorschach in, erm, 19 steps.

Handsome looking fella.



The mask (available online somewhere in America) makes all the difference. Shot with a Canon 7D, 28-105mm F/4L lens and two 580EXII strobes against a green screen.



Extract the background in Photoshop.



Drop over black.



The mask is temperature sensitive and shifts with each breath. Unfortunately the ink is just a bit too light. Fixing this in photoshop and getting the shadows somewhere close was the biggest ballache of the entire project.



A large-scale moody background I grabbed off the internet.



A smokey pattern used as a colour overlay in Photoshop



A few masking tweaks and we're up and running.



Add rain (several layers for perspective) by creating noise, motion blurring and a blend mode.



Drop subject into the background.



Add detail to costume.



Blend lighting so colours match with costume (especially light falling on the face). Add fake splashes to the water with brushes.



Add text (Watchmen font) and Smiley



Print on Roland Versacamm at high quality



Back vinyl onto foamcore.



Finished product.



Satisfied punter.

Only downside i can see is the 50-60 minute battery life (Even less if you turn wifi and the like on)

best be quick www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl ... _36781.htm

best be quick www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/lidl ... _36781.htm

Starling.

The shoulder-charge is alive and well ...



Nikon D600, Nikkor 80-200mm, f/2.8, 1/1000s, ISO 800.

[url=http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-20958659Jessops go into administration[/url

I happened to go past a branch this afternoon, the Vultures are circling already, mind my credit card is primed and ready.

looking at the Jessops website now it seems they have left their customers with a giant "f'k you", vouchers will not be honoured, orders will not be honoured, academy courses (pre-paid) will not be honoured.

The only redeeming factor I can see is that D&G are honouring the product cover.

I'm looking for a (cheapish) macro lens for a Nikon D90. Something I can use close up - I already have a Tamron 70-300 with macro. What would anyone recommend? What do you use?

Quote ="West Leeds Rhino"I'm looking for a (cheapish) macro lens for a Nikon D90. Something I can use close up - I already have a Tamron 70-300 with macro. What would anyone recommend? What do you use?'" tinyurl.com/a5ceymj I have the Canon version, very very good lens for the money.

Quote ="West Leeds Rhino"I'm looking for a (cheapish) macro lens for a Nikon D90. Something I can use close up - I already have a Tamron 70-300 with macro. What would anyone recommend? What do you use?'" tinyurl.com/a5ceymj I have the Canon version, very very good lens for the money.

Opened my camera bag for the first time in a while today and had a play with some water drops.

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/blueskyxiii/8395164697/[/url

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/blueskyxiii/8396248942/[/url

I am struggling to get decent pics at night without the use of a tripod ( and lugging it around with me wherever I go! )?

I have a Nikon D5000 - what are the best settings to use in order to let enough light in to get the shot, but not have the shutter open too long that me holding the camera makes the picture blurry? Apeture or shutter priority, or should I go manual and set both myself??

Or do I really need to have a tripod to avoid blur??

my brother took this at Scarborough mere

What lens are you using and what are you shooting?

Just the lens that came with it, a Nikon 18-55 AF-S DX VR...

Well I was away last week, and trying to shoot buildings, bridges and tourist spots that are lit up in the evening, but lit in low light rather than bright spots lights or similar.

Quote ="Mike Oxlong"Just the lens that came with it, a Nikon 18-55 AF-S DX VR... Well I was away last week, and trying to shoot buildings, bridges and tourist spots that are lit up in the evening, but lit in low light rather than bright spots lights or similar.'" Right you missed out one vital bit of info from that lens spec - f/3.5-5.6 You are not going to get a fast enough shutter speed to shoot hand held even wide open at f3.5, you are going to need to use your tripod or buy a faster lens, f2.8 is good f1.8 better. Canon users have access to what they call a Nifty Fifty, a cheap 50mm lens that is actually a bloody good lens, tack sharp and f1.8, check see if Nikon do something similar. See if these fit your camera tinyurl.com/begehoj

Quote ="Mike Oxlong"Just the lens that came with it, a Nikon 18-55 AF-S DX VR... Well I was away last week, and trying to shoot buildings, bridges and tourist spots that are lit up in the evening, but lit in low light rather than bright spots lights or similar.'" Right you missed out one vital bit of info from that lens spec - f/3.5-5.6 You are not going to get a fast enough shutter speed to shoot hand held even wide open at f3.5, you are going to need to use your tripod or buy a faster lens, f2.8 is good f1.8 better. Canon users have access to what they call a Nifty Fifty, a cheap 50mm lens that is actually a bloody good lens, tack sharp and f1.8, check see if Nikon do something similar. See if these fit your camera tinyurl.com/begehoj

Quote ="Big Graeme" Quote ="Mike Oxlong"Just the lens that came with it, a Nikon 18-55 AF-S DX VR... Well I was away last week, and trying to shoot buildings, bridges and tourist spots that are lit up in the evening, but lit in low light rather than bright spots lights or similar.'" Right you missed out one vital bit of info from that lens spec - f/3.5-5.6 You are not going to get a fast enough shutter speed to shoot hand held even wide open at f3.5, you are going to need to use your tripod or buy a faster lens, f2.8 is good f1.8 better. Canon users have access to what they call a Nifty Fifty, a cheap 50mm lens that is actually a bloody good lens, tack sharp and f1.8, check see if Nikon do something similar. See if these fit your camera tinyurl.com/begehoj'" Sorry about that, am in work and don't have the lens on me to remember what the spec was... Cheers, I will have a look at those when I get home later and see what I can find that hopefully isn't too expensive.

Quote ="Big Graeme" Quote ="Mike Oxlong"Just the lens that came with it, a Nikon 18-55 AF-S DX VR... Well I was away last week, and trying to shoot buildings, bridges and tourist spots that are lit up in the evening, but lit in low light rather than bright spots lights or similar.'" Right you missed out one vital bit of info from that lens spec - f/3.5-5.6 You are not going to get a fast enough shutter speed to shoot hand held even wide open at f3.5, you are going to need to use your tripod or buy a faster lens, f2.8 is good f1.8 better. Canon users have access to what they call a Nifty Fifty, a cheap 50mm lens that is actually a bloody good lens, tack sharp and f1.8, check see if Nikon do something similar. See if these fit your camera tinyurl.com/begehoj'" Sorry about that, am in work and don't have the lens on me to remember what the spec was... Cheers, I will have a look at those when I get home later and see what I can find that hopefully isn't too expensive.

They do.

[urlhttp://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/nikon_afs_dx_nikkor_50mm_f_1_8_g_review/[/url

It's generally regarded as the best value-for-money that Nikon offer.

You could also try setting the ISO to 800 or even 1600. The amount of noise / grain will inevitably increase but modern DSLRs can often cope quite well. Try it and see.

Set your camera in Aperture Priority, select its largest aperture (smallest number), set ISO to ISO800 (initially) and see what shutter speed the camera calculates. Also try substituting any reasonably solid surface for a tripod.

Having a bit of a play with wire wool spinning. Remarkably easy to create pretty spectacular effects. Less easy finding locations that don't cause alarm or attract unwanted attention.

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/iainp/8344378801/[/url
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/iainp/8344378801/Abandoned shed[/url by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/iainp/Iain Peacock[/url, on Flickr

[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/iainp/8411425753/[/url
[url=http://www.flickr.com/photos/iainp/8411425753/Wire Wool Steps[/url by [url=http://www.flickr.com/people/iainp/Iain Peacock[/url, on Flickr

Some more American Football snaps

UCLan Rams vs Sheffield Hallam

Will this AF with my body (D5000) as I've read a few forums and reviews of lenses that say most won't AF and I'd have to manual focus if I did get one...

Why wouldn't a Nikkor lens AF on a Nikon body?