Try these people, I know 2 people who have sold cars to them and both got very fair prices (in fact one of them got £200 more than he was going to advertise it privately for). They're based in Hull I think....

www.bestcarbuyer.co.uk/

Try these people, I know 2 people who have sold cars to them and both got very fair prices (in fact one of them got £200 more than he was going to advertise it privately for). They're based in Hull I think....

www.bestcarbuyer.co.uk/

I personally would not deal with WBAC, because they are owned by Carcraft (enough said!), and after reading the following article :- www.mirror.co.uk/news/top-storie ... -22143643/

I personally would not deal with WBAC, because they are owned by Carcraft (enough said!), and after reading the following article :- www.mirror.co.uk/news/top-storie ... -22143643/

Do they do anything particular more or less than any buyers or sellers of cars do? The article presupposes that there are some generous, benevolent car buyers out there who will insist on offering you top dollar, despite your protestations. This seems unrealistic to me.

If I was buying, and the guy turned out not to have a FSH, or only one key, or two of the tyres were well worn, I'd be getting money knocked off for those, or trying to. Wouldn't anyone?

The battle between the average private car buyer or seller on the one hand, and a professional dealer or experienced trade seller/buyer on the other, is not a fair fight, and it is just surprising how many people seem to have this naive view that tactics to get the best deal are in some way a shock. Is it unfair that the seller tries to hold out for the best sale price, by accentuating the positives?

Given that it isn't hard to know that a giant seller must make enough money to not only operate a national business but advertise it extensively as well, it is obvious they're not goong to give you the best price, even before you start. Isn't it? I would suggest that most people who use them don't expect to get top dollar, and are prepared to take a hit on price for speed, convenience and lack of aggro. A total non-story.

Do they do anything particular more or less than any buyers or sellers of cars do? The article presupposes that there are some generous, benevolent car buyers out there who will insist on offering you top dollar, despite your protestations. This seems unrealistic to me.

If I was buying, and the guy turned out not to have a FSH, or only one key, or two of the tyres were well worn, I'd be getting money knocked off for those, or trying to. Wouldn't anyone?

The battle between the average private car buyer or seller on the one hand, and a professional dealer or experienced trade seller/buyer on the other, is not a fair fight, and it is just surprising how many people seem to have this naive view that tactics to get the best deal are in some way a shock. Is it unfair that the seller tries to hold out for the best sale price, by accentuating the positives?

Given that it isn't hard to know that a giant seller must make enough money to not only operate a national business but advertise it extensively as well, it is obvious they're not goong to give you the best price, even before you start. Isn't it? I would suggest that most people who use them don't expect to get top dollar, and are prepared to take a hit on price for speed, convenience and lack of aggro. A total non-story.

Tbf the check on a CAT C is only to check its identity to make sure the ID of a written off car hasnt been used to hide a stolen car. Anyway I would drive a Cat D the only thing that stops me is that a Cat D will not be touched by so many and people like youve proven will question whether they should buy it which makes them hard to sell on. Basically my point is yeah its good if youre planning to basically keep it until "end of life" if not then its probably a bad idea. Most big garages eg Arnold Clark, Evans Halshaw etc may not be willing to take it in p art exchange (they sometimes will as there is a market for them as trade cars) problem is those companies wont/cant sell them by policy which means you will get really low money for them (value the car here https://www.capconnect.co.uk/consumerva ... x?CH=U2ETN) and half the lowest point on the price and that is what you will get for it trade in.

Im just saying think about it hard unless youre going to keep it long term then just do it if not dont.

For example if its a little city runabout second car like a 107 you will get a much newer car for your money or the same older car for next to nothing and you may as well go for the category D. If its a premium car like a BMW and its on an 09 plate but for the same money in a non-write off youd only get an 06 plate dont do it. Its so cheap because people wont often buy a Cat D premium car.

Final point. What type of car is it? If its a quicker car then a good chance its been crashed by someone that mistreated it if its a car like a Micra, Clio, 107, Hyundai i10 etc then chances are it was completely an accident.



Stay away from CAT Cs though a CAT D is usually just an accident that wasnt the drivers fault and they dont want it repairing as it has an accident history now whereas a CAT C is when the insurance company has refused to repair it as it was too expensive if someones selling a CAT C theyve managed to repair a car that shouldnt have been repairable for its value so mathematically id suspect that it was repaired with inferior parts.

Tbf the check on a CAT C is only to check its identity to make sure the ID of a written off car hasnt been used to hide a stolen car. Anyway I would drive a Cat D the only thing that stops me is that a Cat D will not be touched by so many and people like youve proven will question whether they should buy it which makes them hard to sell on. Basically my point is yeah its good if youre planning to basically keep it until "end of life" if not then its probably a bad idea. Most big garages eg Arnold Clark, Evans Halshaw etc may not be willing to take it in p art exchange (they sometimes will as there is a market for them as trade cars) problem is those companies wont/cant sell them by policy which means you will get really low money for them (value the car here https://www.capconnect.co.uk/consumerva ... x?CH=U2ETN) and half the lowest point on the price and that is what you will get for it trade in.

Im just saying think about it hard unless youre going to keep it long term then just do it if not dont.

For example if its a little city runabout second car like a 107 you will get a much newer car for your money or the same older car for next to nothing and you may as well go for the category D. If its a premium car like a BMW and its on an 09 plate but for the same money in a non-write off youd only get an 06 plate dont do it. Its so cheap because people wont often buy a Cat D premium car.

Final point. What type of car is it? If its a quicker car then a good chance its been crashed by someone that mistreated it if its a car like a Micra, Clio, 107, Hyundai i10 etc then chances are it was completely an accident.



Stay away from CAT Cs though a CAT D is usually just an accident that wasnt the drivers fault and they dont want it repairing as it has an accident history now whereas a CAT C is when the insurance company has refused to repair it as it was too expensive if someones selling a CAT C theyve managed to repair a car that shouldnt have been repairable for its value so mathematically id suspect that it was repaired with inferior parts.